The definition of tomato gravy depends on where you seek it. First, let’s be clear: This is not “gravy” as in the tomato sauce Italian American nonnas simmer on their stovetops on Sunday. “Tomato gravy is to different people what they want it to be,” explains Southern chef John Currence in his book Big Bad Breakfast: The Most Important Book of the Day. In Cajun cooking, it’s made with tomatoes, peppers, and a roux, and in Appalachian cuisine, it’s a rich gravy that’s often served at breakfast, spooned over homemade biscuits or grits.
This recipe, which Currence developed for a 2011 Thanksgiving spread, is from the Appalachian camp. In some, a roux is made with bacon grease drippings, but this one uses butter (making it a wonderful vegetarian alternative to sausage gravy). Fresh tomatoes shine here when in season; the rest of the year, canned tomatoes work fine. A smidge of cayenne wakes up the flavors and cuts through the richness, but if you’re a heat-seeker, feel free to add more to taste. Remember that stewed tomatoes are high in acid, which can eat away at a cast-iron skillet’s seasoning, so opt for a stainless-steel saucepan when making this.
Ingredients
Makes about 5 cups
½
2
2
2
1
⅓
3
⅛
Preparation
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Step 1
Melt ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add 2 medium onions, finely chopped, and 2 sprigs thyme; cook, stirring often, until onions are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour; stir constantly for 3 minutes.
Step 2
Add 1 (28-oz.) can crushed tomatoes with juices; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened and flavors meld, about 30 minutes. Discard thyme. Stir in ⅓ cup thinly sliced scallions, 3 Tbsp. heavy cream, and ⅛ tsp. cayenne pepper. Season to taste with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and more cayenne, if desired.