Foodily

May 21, 2021
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This recipe for creamy corn chowder boasts layers upon layers of flavor. It starts with fresh summer sweet corn. Instead of relying on chicken broth, you’ll use the sheared cobs to make a Parmesan-corn broth for the chowder’s base. Want to make it year-round, even when corn’s not in season? You still won’t need store-bought stock. A combination of mushroom stems, fresh herbs, and cheese rinds make for a tasty broth, even if the corn flavor won’t be as potent. Pro tip for midwinter corn chowder makers: Leave the canned corn on the shelf; frozen corn will taste fresher and have a better texture.

Sautéing the corn kernels in butter before adding them to the soup pot concentrates their flavor—you’re looking to cook off most of the juices and pick up a bit of caramelization. You’ll deglaze the pan with white wine (a crisp, dry Pinot Grigio works well here) before sautéing a bit of diced thick-cut bacon in the same pan. For a vegetarian version, omit the bacon, but replace it with extra shiitake mushrooms and sauté them until golden brown (reserve some crispy bits for topping the soup) before adding in the rest of the veg.

Ingredients

8 servings

ears of corn, husks removed

Parmesan rinds (about 4 oz.; optional)

oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and reserved, caps cut into ¼” pieces

sprigs thyme

bay leaf

tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more

Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature, divided

Freshly ground black pepper

cup dry white wine

oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into ¼” pieces

lb. russet potatoes, peeled, cut into ½” pieces

shallots, thinly sliced

medium leek, white and pale green parts only, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced

garlic cloves, finely grated

Fresno chiles, seeded, finely chopped

Tbsp. all-purpose flour

cups heavy cream

Tbsp. chopped marjoram

Chopped parsley or chives and crushed oyster crackers (for serving)

Preparation

Step 1

Cut kernels from 8 ears of corn, husks removed, and place in a large bowl. Place cobs in a medium pot and add 2 Parmesan rinds (if using), reserved stems from 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf, 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton’s kosher salt, and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth is fragrant and reduced by half, 40–50 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl; discard solids and set broth aside.

Step 2

Meanwhile, heat 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-high. Add corn kernels, season generously with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until corn is tender and juices have evaporated and browned on the bottom of the pot, 12–15 minutes. Reserve ½ cup corn for garnish; transfer remaining corn to a medium bowl.

Step 3

Add ¼ cup dry white wine to pot and cook, scraping up browned bits, until liquid is syrupy, about 2 minutes. Scrape into bowl with remaining corn.

Step 4

Melt remaining 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter in same pot over medium heat and cook 4 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into ¼” pieces, until golden brown and fat has rendered, about 6 minutes. Add 1 lb. russet potatoes, peeled, cut into ½” pieces, 3 shallots, thinly sliced, 1 medium leek, white and pale green parts only, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced, 2 garlic cloves, finely grated, and shiitake mushroom caps, cut into ¼” pieces, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have softened but haven’t taken on any color, 12–15 minutes. Add 2 Fresno chiles, seeded, finely chopped and cook until fragrant and softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour and cook until nutty and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add reserved broth, bring to a boil, and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are fork-tender, 10–15 minutes. Add 2 cups heavy cream and corn mixture and cook, stirring, until chowder has thickened, 5–10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 Tbsp. chopped marjoram. Let sit 15 minutes before serving.

Step 5

Divide chowder among bowls. Top with chopped parsley or chives, oyster crackers, and reserved ½ cup corn; season with pepper.