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Chef Zakary Pelaccio of Fatty Crab approaches each step in the grilling process as an opportunity to maximize aromatic herbs and spices. In Malaysia, he learned to transform a marinade into a basting liquid, then reduce it and serve it as a dipping sauce: The seasonings concentrate along the way and become more complex. “This isn’t a method you’ll find in cookbooks,” he says. “It’s a technique you’ll see in markets and on the streets.” Such layering guarantees a depth of flavor that’s impossible to achieve with any single step. Just be sure to begin 1 day ahead; the chicken needs to marinate overnight for the flavors to infuse. As for the crispy skin, cooking the wings slowly over medium-low coals and turning them often makes for the ideal results; the skin will brown while the meat cooks through. Just before serving, Pelaccio recommends adding a squeeze of lime juice; the high citrus note completes the finished dish.
4 Servings
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Combine coconut milk, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, jalapeños, ginger, lime juice, tamarind juice, fish sauce, kosher salt, turmeric, and 1 cup water in a blender. Purée mixture until a smooth marinade forms.
Place chicken wings in a large baking dish. Pour marinade over; turn wings to coat evenly. Cover chicken and chill overnight.
Remove chicken from marinade, shaking any excess marinade back into dish. Transfer chicken to a large platter. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.
Transfer marinade to a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until marinade thickens, 10-15 minutes. Pour half of marinade into a small bowl; set aside for basting chicken while it grills. Keep remaining marinade in saucepan; cover and keep warm until ready to serve the chicken.
Build a medium fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Oil grill grates to prevent sticking. Grill chicken wings, turning every 5 minutes and basting occasionally with marinade in small bowl, until fat is rendered and skin is nicely charred in spots, 30-35 minutes. (The key here is to turn the wings often so the skin doesn’t burn.)
Continue cooking chicken without basting (so it will get crisp) until wings are cooked through, about 10 minutes longer.
Transfer chicken to a large platter and let it rest for 5 minutes. Squeeze lime wedges over wings. Transfer marinade in saucepan to a small bowl. Serve warm marinade alongside chicken as a dipping sauce.
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